Alouette is a Luxemotor barge built in 1910 in Zwartsluis, Holland. She was first used as a cattle transporter, and later as a shrimp fishing boat. In 2002, she was lovingly converted by a British couple into a liveaboard barge. We are her third owners - Randy and Deborah, two Americans from Colorado who escaped corporate life in search of an adventure. After a few years of searching for the right adventure, we discovered the barging life. Having sailed for most of our adult lives, it seemed a perfect fit. We spent another year looking for the right barge and in the summer of 2010 found her in Roanne, France. We've renamed her Alouette - the Lark. And so in her 100th year, together with our two Russian Blue cats, we're shoving off for a life on the canals and rivers of Europe.

Thursday, January 17, 2013

July in Dijon

July and August were bittersweet months for us.  We moved up the Burgundy Canal to the city of Dijon, yes, like the mustard.  There we discovered a small leak in a water hose in our generator, and since we were heading up into very rural, off-the-grid parts of the canal, we decided to order a new hose, but that took all total 3 weeks to track down, order, and wait to receive it. But Dijon is a lovely city, great parks, a beautiful large lake (Lac Kir) with water sports and a swim beach.  We visited a beautiful outdoor art exhibit in a park - paper mache birds made by both professional artists, and children.  They were protected by decorative umbrellas.



The body is an old vacuum cleaner canister, the tongue is an umbrella handle!

One of the days we visited, some of the child artists were visiting the exhibit, proudly posing in front of their work.  That brought back fond memories of posing with my tapestries on exhibit at Denver International Airport and Tohono Chul in Tucson.

The port in Dijon is home to many waterbirds, but we were really excited to see a pair of bar headed geese with two goslings.  Mom and Dad were very protective of the babies, and had the most curious behavior, I described it as "Happy Feet" - reminded me of Steve Martin on SNL when he would break into a dance routine.  The adults would do the happy feet routine both on the ground, and in the water when they swam over to the boat for our leftover baguettes. We had never seen bar headed geese before, so of course we had to google them, and it turns out that they are from Central Asia and actually fly over the Himalayas.  They are considered the world's highest flying bird.  We don't know what this pair was doing in Dijon, but they were beautiful and much loved by the people around the port.  The port is in the center of the city and is linked to lots of paths for cyclists, rollerbladers, and walkers and everyone seems to bring their leftover bread to feed the birds.


July 14th brought the usual round of festivities surrounding Bastille Day.  But we were in for a special treat in the port.  Taraf Goulamas, a band from the south of France, were in the port park for a free concert sponsored by the town as part of the fete.  Their routine was wonderful - the first set of lively music, sounding more like Klezmer to me, was a lead up to their act - cooking esccargot for the crowd, and serving it during the break.  While we waited for them to start, I thought the large kettle looking thing on the stage was a steel drum, but it was actually their wok/grill!  They took turns playing and chopping the onions and garlic, brought an audience member up on stage to help cook. The "presentation" of the escargot, was followed by a New Orleans style funeral procession through the crowd with the live escargot getting the "last rights" and the first set finished with sauteing the critters in the big pan.  They were amazing musicians, and during the break, we talked with one of them. They are accomplished jazz musicians who have this group as well.  By the second set, the stage was mobbed with everyone - including Randy - dancing.  You can check them out on the link posted to the right.

Fancy drumming, and fancy knife skills too!


Taking a break during the long musical intro




We finally received our part and resumed cruising up the Canal du Bourgogne.  To be continued . . .

Remembering Anya





My postings abruptly stopped in late June.  The remainder of our cruising season was great, and I will fill in the blanks soon.  We returned to port in late September,  short one crew member.  When we shoved off in the spring, we knew this would probably Anya’s last voyage.  At age 15-1/2, she had developed the renal problems that are so common in older cats.  She was doing fine on some meds and a special diet, but in mid-July, it was apparent she was slowing down, and she took a turn for the worse in late July.  On August 7th, she crossed over the Rainbow Bridge.  We are so grateful for the years she spent with us, and for the kindness of so many strangers who stepped in to help us as we traveled to the point where we had to say goodbye to her.  Her last days were spent in beautiful Vandenesse-en-Auxois, in the shadow of the magnificent Chateauneuf-en-Auxois.  But what a life she had, from Austin, Texas, to our home in the mountains of Colorado, to Santa Fe, to life in a high rise in downtown Denver, to Tucson, Arizona, she traveled with us roundtrip twice from the US to Geneva, to our home port in Roanne, and she cruised the canals of France for 3 seasons.  She even enjoyed a vacation on the Riviera last January.  We miss her sweet little routines and her mischievous playfulness, and are so thankful to have had her in our lives for such a long time.

Captains Debbie, Randy and Dimitri
Dimitri and Anya